Pavit Gujral
2nd Place – “Coral”
Pavit Gujral was honored with two Saul Bell Design Awards this year:
One in the Gold and Platinum category and one in the Jewelry Collection Bridge/Fashion category. “Coral,” her breathtaking ring, is inspired by her experiences as a scuba diver. She has been fascinated by the creatures and surroundings she has seen when under water. Coral is one of them. This amazing stone is the centerpiece of her ring and for good reason. The colors, movement and materials of “Coral” perfectly capture the beauty of an underwater world.
Artist Interview:
Q. How did you come up with the title?
I am an advanced scuba diver and saw and experienced many beautiful corals when I dove. My piece is named after the beautiful, colorful corals that adorn the marine world.
Q. What/who was your inspiration?
The "Coral" ring has been inspired from my scuba diving adventures. The colorful corals make the ocean so vibrant and lively. They are home to many creatures of the marine world and its sad that they are slowly bleaching away.
Q. How long did it take to make the piece?
The ring took about two and a half months to create.
Q. What challenges did you overcome while you were making it?
The main challenge was to set the trillion-cut diamonds and tsavorite garnet in the opal. It is very soft and to set the diamonds and garnet in it without damaging the opal was my goal.
Q. What do you plan to do with the piece?
This piece will be a part of collection. I don’t plan to sell it right now because I am not going after a mass market approach in my business. Instead I am seeking custom clients.
Q. Will this piece inspire other work?
Yes. It already has.
Saul Bell Design Award
Q. What did you feel when you learned you’d won?
I have been entering the SBDA for the last three years and this time I won. I don’t come from a jewelry background. In India these types of designs are always something out of the box. So it is especially important to have prestigious industry acknowledgement, such as the SBDA.
Q. Whom did you tell first about winning?
My family.
Educational and Professional Background
Q. Of all the arts and crafts, why did you choose jewelry?
I chose jewelry because of my love for gemstones. I have always wanted a design career and it was either going to be jewelry or shoes. Maybe one of these days I might combine my passion for these two areas and design diamond- studded shoes.
Q. What was the first piece of jewelry you ever made?
The first piece I ever designed was for school. It was my final project and was a wings necklace—rubies on one wing and diamonds on the other.
Q. What was your training/academic background in jewelry-making?
I went to the Gemological Institute of America in New York City to study diamonds, colored gemstones and design.
Q. What was the biggest challenge you have faced in your business?
The Indian market is very male dominated. There just are not many women. I am creating a new trend in a society of people that are not open to new ideas and things. The Indian market likes to follow trends and doesn’t want to step outside of that.
Q. What is the best advice you received?
It was from my father. He believes that recognition comes first and money will follow.
Q. What other awards, honors have you received in your career?
I was a finalist for two consecutive years in the prestigious IJ Jewellers Choice Design Awards in Jaipur, India.
Q. What is your definition of “success”?
I think in the end, success is to start a trend and have people follow it and recognize my brand. People in India are not aware of the boundless types of gemstones available. I plan to educate them about the existence and value of various gemstones so that they are more open to accepting the entire gems world.
Creative Influences and Environment
Q. What or who do you think has been the strongest influence or inspiration on your work?
I have done two major collections in my life. Nature and architecture have always inspired my work. My collections are the Marine World Collection and the Nature Collection.
Q. What artist, dead or alive, do you most admire? Why?
Alexander McQueen. He was a fashion designer and has been a strong inspiration to me. He started his own style, brand and trend.
Q. Is the product or the process more important to you? Why?
I love the process, if the process isn’t working then you won’t have the right final product.
Q. What metals, gemstones, processes do you enjoy most?
I mostly work with 18k gold but I would like to try out titanium. Indian society has not accepted titanium jewelry yet. And, of course, I love phenomenal gemstones.
Q. Describe your studio.
My studio is currently under construction. It will have bright colors and it will be a fun place to work. I will even have monkey wallpaper.
Interview by Marlene Richey